泰咖啡文化之旅 Thailand's Coffee

為了瞭解泰國咖啡文化的起源以及它如何成為今天的泰國咖啡文化，我們需要深入研究這個國家的咖啡歷史。看了很多文獻與各方文章，一些人說，咖啡是在拉瑪三世國王統治時期首次精心種植的，而其他人則認為喝咖啡始於大城時期。剛好有看見泰國進出口咖啡的咖啡傷故事和見解，來瞭解泰國咖啡歷史。我們透過他們的各種文章探索泰國咖啡的歷史，他們分享他們的經驗，並編織泰國咖啡過去的故事情節。

20世紀50年代及之前：定義泰國生活方式的混合咖啡

泰國朋友回憶道：“回顧童年時，記得只喝普通水或椰子水。在泰國中部，我們遵循了泰國南部的趨勢，那裡的'O-Yua（泰式熱黑咖啡）很受歡迎。早上，人們會將煉乳與O'Ya混合，並將其帶到橡膠種植園。下班後，他們會聚集在咖啡委員會進行社交活動。由於泰國中部的氣候炎熱，我們在O-Yua添加了冰，它進化成了O-Liang泰式黑咖啡歐涼。”

在他的童年時期，經常被派去買O-Liang。過去，O-Liang被認為是一種歡迎飲料，當客人來訪時，通常在家裡享用。與今天不同，它不是隨時隨地都可以享用的飲料。政府官員在工作時會喝O'Yua來補充他們的能量，咖啡的味道開始慢慢蔓延到人們的日常生活中。隨著O-Liang越來越受歡迎，牛奶被新增，使其具有更優質的感覺。具有更高社會地位的富裕人士通常會喝牛奶。

在此期間，泰國消費的咖啡都是外國的。它是透過新加坡的中間商從印度尼西亞進口的。當聯絡他們進行銷售時，發現泰國進口的大多數印度尼西亞咖啡都是低品質。大約25%的豆子被損壞或混合，烤時會產生令人不快的香氣。為了掩蓋咖啡的劣質，人們會新增黃油、糖和其他成分，然後烘烤至燒焦。這導致了苦味，這導致了在咖啡中新增甜煉乳的常見做法，使其更可口，以及為什麼許多泰國人認為咖啡本質上是苦味的。

咖啡在當時被認為是一種全國性的飲料。但當它變得更受歡迎時，咖啡成為政府控制價格的產品。有一次，一杯咖啡不能以超過1泰銖的價格出售，但當咖啡材料昂貴時，國家仍然固定了這個原始價格。這使得咖啡銷售商很難受，所以他們不得不將羅望子籽和咖啡一起烘焙，以降低成本。不幸的是，新增羅望子籽損害了咖啡的味道和香氣，導致其受歡迎程度下降，許多人轉而使用軟飲料。

在泰國引入速溶咖啡後，咖啡店認識到其優勢，並決定將其納入選單。這主要是由於速溶咖啡的便利性和可負擔性，因為它需要最少的努力和資源來沖泡。隨後，咖啡在大眾中重新流行起來，儘管是一種新形式。

20世紀70年代：羅布斯塔咖啡成為現金作物

在咖啡成為主流流行後，泰國內政部推動了該國南部地區的羅布斯塔咖啡種植。在Huay Nam Thai建立了一家咖啡烘焙廠，以確保公平的價格和對農民的支援。雖然阿拉比卡咖啡也被引入，但由於它的酸味，它仍然需要泰國人熟悉，因此在普及方面面臨著更多困難。此外，當時的後勤和運輸問題給阿拉比卡咖啡的發展帶來了重大障礙。

在泰國羅布斯塔咖啡的早期，它相對不為人知，促使政府要求貿易商透過從指定的烘焙廠購買當地咖啡來支援當地咖啡。為了擴大國內和國際市場，貿易商還必須找到推廣泰國咖啡的方法。甚至聯絡了新加坡網路，幫助銷售泰國咖啡。最終，找到了一個心胸開放的買家，願意從泰國這樣的新生產商那裡購買咖啡。

20世紀80年代，泰國咖啡產業在全球市場獲得認可

當全球市場的咖啡價格霿升時，成立了國際咖啡組織（ICO），以規範咖啡生產國之間的買賣配額。然而，非成員國沒有分配配額，使其製造商容易受到買家的價格壓力。作為迴應，泰國咖啡行業的成員於1982年成立了泰國咖啡協會，並尋求商務部的援助以加入ICO。在該部的支援下，泰國成功進入全球咖啡行業，專注於保證農民的公平價格。在這十年裡，泰國的羅布斯塔咖啡取得了一個重要的里程碑。在一些年份裡，該國對外國速溶咖啡加工廠的出口量達到了近10萬噸！這一代人成功地將泰國羅布斯塔咖啡引入世界，使泰國成為咖啡生產國。

“當時，鑑於泰國咖啡的收穫季節提前，外商貿易公司優先與泰國咖啡達成交易。這使得泰國咖啡成為全球咖啡工廠的首選原料，後來像印度尼西亞這樣的國家緊隨其後。這一成就是我們國家的驕傲。”泰國朋友補充道。

20世紀90年代，泰國向新鮮咖啡消費的轉變

隨著經濟和社會變化的發生，人們對咖啡的選擇變得更加挑剔。速溶咖啡是人們學習咖啡的起點，隨著他們獲得知識，他們開始品嚐烘焙或新鮮煮好的咖啡。1998-1999年，全球咖啡價格大幅下跌。然而，這也是星巴克和擁有100多家分店的泰國咖啡品牌“Baan Rai Coffee”等咖啡連鎖店開始出現的時候。這些業務對泰國的咖啡趨勢產生了重大影響。

在泰式餐廳危機期間，許多人失去了工作，並努力尋找謀生的方法。為了應對這種情況，開一家新鮮的咖啡店被視為一個低投資選擇，只需要一臺小型咖啡機就可以以每杯10-20泰銖的低價出售咖啡，以獲得可觀的利潤。隨著經濟逐漸復甦，越來越多的人開始喝咖啡，更多的咖啡館也開張了。泰國人變得更加開放，因此，阿拉比卡咖啡獲得了認可和知名度，為我們今天在泰國看到的繁榮的咖啡文化做出了貢獻。

泰國朋友說：“泰國很幸運，因為他們擁有完整的咖啡供應鏈，從農民、加工商、烘焙師、釀造師到消費者。觀察當前的情況，泰國現在被認為是一個咖啡加工國，我們從其他國家進口咖啡，也擁有自己的國內咖啡。作為一名貿易商，泰國咖啡品牌不一定必須只在泰國種植。泰國咖啡的獨特身份和差異使其與眾不同，這引起了全球消費者的共鳴。這就是讓我們興奮的東西，也是我們希望為泰國看到的未來。

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To understand the origins of Thailand's coffee culture and how it has evolved into what it is today, a deep dive into the country's coffee history is necessary. Through various sources, including literature and articles, there are differing opinions on when coffee was first cultivated in Thailand. Some attribute its introduction to King Rama III, while others claim it began during the Ayutthaya period. Exploring the history of Thai coffee involves delving into these sources, sharing the experiences of individuals, and weaving together the narrative of Thailand's coffee past.

Before the 1950s: Blended Coffee Defining Thai Lifestyle

In reminiscing about childhood, a Thai friend recalls a time when beverages were limited to water or coconut water. In central Thailand, there was a trend from the south known as "O-Yua," which is Thai-style hot black coffee. People would mix condensed milk with O-Yua and take it to rubber plantations. Over time, ice was added to combat the hot climate, evolving into "O-Liang," Thai iced black coffee. In this era, coffee was a welcomed drink, usually enjoyed at home when guests visited. It wasn't a beverage consumed everywhere at all times. Government officials would drink O-Yua for energy during work hours, and coffee slowly seeped into everyday life. As O-Liang gained popularity, milk was added for a richer taste, and wealthier individuals would opt for milk instead.

During this period, coffee consumed in Thailand was imported from foreign countries, primarily through intermediaries in Singapore from Indonesia. However, the quality of most Indonesian coffee imported to Thailand was low. To mask the poor quality, additives like butter, sugar, and other substances were mixed in, and the coffee was roasted until it was burnt. This resulted in bitterness, leading to the common practice of adding sweetened condensed milk to coffee, making it more palatable. Coffee was considered a nationwide drink, but as its popularity grew, the government controlled its prices. At one point, coffee couldn't be sold for more than 1 Thai baht per cup, even when the cost of materials increased. This led coffee sellers to mix tamarind seeds with coffee beans during roasting to lower costs. Unfortunately, adding tamarind seeds compromised the taste and aroma, leading to a decline in popularity, with many people switching to soft drinks.

After the introduction of instant coffee in Thailand, coffee shops recognized its advantages and decided to include it in their menus. This was primarily due to the convenience and affordability of instant coffee, requiring minimal effort and resources to brew. Subsequently, coffee regained popularity among the public, albeit in a new form.

1970s: Robusta Coffee as a Cash Crop

Once coffee became mainstream, the Thai Ministry of Interior promoted the cultivation of Robusta coffee in the southern regions. A coffee roasting factory was established in Huay Nam Thai to ensure fair prices and support for farmers. Although Arabica coffee was also introduced, it faced challenges in acceptance due to its acidity, requiring Thais to acquire a taste for it. Additionally, logistical and transportation issues posed significant obstacles to the development of Arabica coffee.

In the early days of Thai Robusta coffee, it was relatively unknown, prompting the government to require traders to buy local coffee from designated roasting facilities to support the local industry. To expand the domestic and international markets, traders had to find ways to promote Thai coffee. They even reached out to online platforms in Singapore to help sell Thai coffee. Eventually, an open-minded buyer was found, willing to purchase coffee from a newcomer like Thailand. In the 1980s, Thailand's coffee industry gained recognition in the global market.

1980s: Recognition in the Global Coffee Market

During a period of rising global coffee prices, the International Coffee Organization (ICO) was established to regulate trade quotas between coffee-producing countries. However, non-member countries were not allocated quotas, making their producers vulnerable to price pressures from buyers. In response, members of Thailand's coffee industry founded the Thai Coffee Association in 1982 and sought assistance from the Ministry of Commerce to join the ICO. With support from the ministry, Thailand successfully entered the global coffee industry, focusing on ensuring fair prices for farmers. During this decade, Thai Robusta coffee achieved a significant milestone. In some years, the country exported nearly 100,000 tons of coffee to foreign instant coffee processing plants! This generation successfully introduced Thai Robusta coffee to the world, making Thailand a coffee-producing country.

1990s: Shift towards Fresh Coffee Consumption

As economic and social changes occurred, people became more discerning in their coffee choices. Instant coffee served as the starting point for people to learn about coffee, and as their knowledge grew, they began to appreciate brewed or freshly brewed coffee. In 1998-1999, global coffee prices plummeted. However, this was also the time when coffee chains like Starbucks and Thai coffee brand "Baan Rai Coffee" with over 100 outlets started emerging. These businesses significantly influenced Thailand's coffee trends.

During the Thai restaurant crisis, many people lost their jobs and sought alternative means of livelihood. Opening a fresh coffee shop was seen as a low-investment option, requiring only a small coffee machine to sell coffee at prices ranging from 10-20 Thai baht per cup, ensuring substantial profits. As the economy gradually recovered, more people started drinking coffee, and more coffee shops opened. Thai people became more open-minded, and thus, Arabica coffee gained recognition and popularity, contributing to the thriving coffee culture seen in Thailand today.

A Thai friend says, "Thailand is fortunate because we have a complete coffee supply chain, from farmers, processors, roasters, brewers to consumers. Looking at the current situation, Thailand is now considered a coffee processing country; we import coffee from other countries and also have our own domestic coffee. As a trader, Thai coffee brands don't necessarily have to be grown only in Thailand. The unique identity and differences of Thai coffee set it apart, resonating with consumers worldwide. That's what excites us, and that's the future we hope to see for Thailand."