味覺與嗅覺(二)/Taste and Smell (Part 2)

在我們細細品味美食的同時,總是少不了一位默默無聞卻極為重要的「味覺指揮官」——嗅覺。嗅覺被細分為「鼻前嗅覺」,即外部氣味的感知,和「鼻後嗅覺」,是由口腔內部通道進入鼻腔的氣味。這兩者結合,不僅能夠提高味覺對口感的敏感度,更是許多美食體驗中不可或缺的一部分。

嗅覺疲勞:

即便嗅覺是如此敏感,它也有其極限。通常,人類的鼻子一次僅能辨識3種不同的味道,即便經過訓練,極限也僅為7種味道。這在進行咖啡杯測時尤為明顯,反覆的香氣刺激可能導致嗅覺疲勞,讓我們難以再辨識其他的香味,就如同你長時間聞香水,最終無法再嗅出味道,需要中途用一些咖啡豆來緩和中間的平衡。

嗅聞自己皮膚的原始味道:

面對嗅覺疲勞,有一個小技巧是嗅聞自己皮膚的原始味道,即未使用香氛產品的香味。這能夠讓嗅覺重新回歸基準,重拾對味道的敏感性,就像是一場嗅覺的修復之旅。

風味的複雜結合:

風味,是味覺、鼻後嗅覺和口腔觸覺的複雜結合。在咖啡世界中,美國精品咖啡協會和世界咖啡研究協會合作推出的「咖啡風味輪」成為一個重要工具。這個輪子將風味細分為花香、果香、甜味、堅果可可、香料、烘烤、植物蔬菜及酸酵味等9大類,總共可細分至85種風味。使用咖啡風味輪不僅有助於形成杯測的共同語言,更是一種有意識地品嚐咖啡的藝術。

使用風味輪的技巧:

在使用風味輪的過程中,從風味輪中央開始,越廣義的描述越靠近中央,越精準的描述越靠外圍。找出風味後,回到風味輪中央重新尋找另一種風味,反覆進行此動作。閱讀詞彙成為描述風味的工具,對於專業杯測師而言是重要的參考資訊。

台灣咖啡風味的獨特之處:

然而,由於飲食文化的差異,西方風味輪中的一些味道在國內可能不太為人熟知。因此,「台灣咖啡風味輪」特別加入了熱帶水果、瓜果風味以及烏梅、紅棗等果乾風味元素,以使風味更貼近台灣人的口味,更容易被理解和分享。這就像是在風味的大海中,我們找到了一條獨特的台灣風味之路。

在美食探索的旅途中,讓我們更加重視這位悄悄引領我們品味之旅的嗅覺大師,他們的存在,是一場無聲的美味交響曲。




As we delve into the world of gastronomy, we often overlook a quiet yet crucial "maestro of taste" – our sense of smell. Olfaction is divided into two main categories: "orthonasal olfaction," which detects external aromas, and "retronasal olfaction," responsible for the internal passage of scents from the mouth to the nasal cavity. Together, they not only enhance the sensitivity of our taste buds to textures but also play an indispensable role in many gastronomic experiences.

Olfactory Fatigue:

Despite the heightened sensitivity of our sense of smell, it has its limits. Typically, the human nose can only identify three different smells at once, and even with training, the limit extends to seven. This becomes particularly evident during coffee cupping, where repetitive aromatic stimuli can lead to olfactory fatigue, making it challenging to discern other aromas – akin to continuously smelling various perfumes until your nose becomes desensitized, requiring a reset with a few coffee beans.

Rediscovering the Original Scent:

To combat olfactory fatigue, a helpful trick is to smell your own skin's natural scent, devoid of fragrance products. This simple act can reset your sense of smell, restoring sensitivity to different aromas, resembling a rejuvenating journey for your olfactory senses.

The Complex Blend of Flavor:

Flavor, the amalgamation of taste, retronasal olfaction, and oral touch sensation, becomes a complex symphony. In the realm of coffee, the "Coffee Flavor Wheel," a collaboration between the Specialty Coffee Association of America and the World Coffee Research, serves as a pivotal tool. It classifies flavors into categories such as floral, fruity, sweet, nutty/cocoa, spicy, roasty, vegetal, and fermented, with a detailed breakdown into 85 specific flavor profiles. Utilizing the Coffee Flavor Wheel not only aids in creating a shared language for cupping but also becomes an art of consciously savoring coffee.

Techniques for Using the Flavor Wheel:

When using the Flavor Wheel, start from the center, where broader descriptions are closer to the core and more precise ones extend towards the periphery. Once a flavor is identified, return to the center and search for another, repeating this process. Reading the vocabulary becomes a tool for describing flavors, serving as crucial information for professional cuppers.

The Unique Taste of Taiwanese Coffee:

However, due to cultural differences in dietary habits, some flavors in the Western Flavor Wheel might be less familiar to locals. Therefore, the "Taiwanese Coffee Flavor Wheel" introduces tropical fruit, melon, and dried fruit elements such as smoked plum and red dates, aiming to make flavors more relatable to Taiwanese palates and easier to understand and share. It's like discovering a unique Taiwanese flavor route in the vast sea of tastes.

On our journey of culinary exploration, let's pay closer attention to the olfactory maestros silently guiding our taste adventures. Their presence orchestrates a silent symphony of flavors, adding a dimension of richness to our gastronomic experiences.


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